You can’t force change down people’s throats—but you can nudge them, gently, creatively, into moving in the right direction. Ashita Singhal based her enterprise, Paiwand Studio, on this principle, embodying the ancient Chinese proverb that it is better to light a candle than to curse the darkness.
The designer-turned-entrepreneur’s belief that winners are born from collaboration, not competition, puts her at odds with the norms of the fashion industry. “Fast fashion brands have adapted quickly to sustainability,” Singhal says, adding that while for some this may be lip service, others are genuinely trying to make better choices. Transitioning to sustainable practices isn’t easy, and the answer can’t be to expect established producers to just shut down. “The more responsible approach is holding owners accountable and encouraging them to find better solutions,” she says.
In her own work, sustainability is a bedrock rather than an afterthought. All of Paiwand Studio’s designs are made from upcycled waste fabric. The scrap material collected from various sources is sorted by colour and fibre, and then cut into strips. These strips become threads for weaving and embroidery, using handloom tools and methods. What was once waste becomes a unique piece of clothing.
“We don’t want to just make products out of waste; we aim to create meaningful, beautiful items with stories behind them. The idea is that when people know the history and effort behind a piece, they value it more and keep it longer, rather than discarding it easily,” according to her.
The time and labour involved in making each of these pieces is reflected in Pawand Studio’s prices, which might discourage some consumers. She understands this, and believes there is space in the market for all kinds of players. “Fast fashion is accessible, and for some, it’s a way to express themselves. The issue arises when fast fashion brands dominate the market and push smaller players out. There is space for everyone in a world as large as ours, and rather than competing to be the ‘next big thing,’ we can all coexist as ‘good, small things’.”