Interview

ECONOMY AND BUSINESS

“LOUIS VUITTON IS LIKE MCDONALDS”

The 2001 earthquake in Kutch shattered the district. What followed was a reconstruction effort that laid the foundation of the “Gujarat Model” of development

By
ROHIT CHAWLA

BOMBAY

July 29, 2025

Dana Thomas began her career at the Style section of The Washington Post in the late 1980s, back when the great fashion houses were still intimate and and family-owned. Her three books, Fashionopolis: The Prince of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes, Gods and Knights: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, and Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster trace the transformation of these companies into multi-million-dollar giant with questionable practices, and take readers beyond the glitz of the runway to the Chinese factories employing children. Thomas talks to Alia Allana about fashion’s connection with the environment, the enduring appeal of Chanel and why most luxury today is “mass-produced junk”

Excerpts:

The fashion industry is a horrendous polluter. To what extent do you hold petroleum-based synthetics like polyester responsible?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Traditionally, India followed this model. You’re still able to trace the farmer, spinner, weaver, block printer, and tailor. But the craft industry is dwindling, as workers don’t find it socially ot economically rewarding. With the Western push towards sustainability, could Indian artisans and crafts be elevated?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

The fashion industry is a horrendous polluter. To what extent do you hold petroleum-based synthetics like polyester responsible?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Traditionally, India followed this model. You’re still able to trace the farmer, spinner, weaver, block printer, and tailor. But the craft industry is dwindling, as workers don’t find it socially ot economically rewarding. With the Western push towards sustainability, could Indian artisans and crafts be elevated?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Where do you see these changes?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

From left to right: Lise Pierron, Samir Sabe, Amanda Diaz and Tayshia Adams.

What has gone totally haywire and turned the fashion spectacle into a true theatre of the absurd is the audience itself.

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ROHIT CHAWLA

The fashion industry is a horrendous polluter. To what extent do you hold petroleum-based synthetics like polyester responsible?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Traditionally, India followed this model. You’re still able to trace the farmer, spinner, weaver, block printer, and tailor. But the craft industry is dwindling, as workers don’t find it socially ot economically rewarding. With the Western push towards sustainability, could Indian artisans and crafts be elevated?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Where do you see these changes?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Traditionally, India followed this model. You’re still able to trace the farmer, spinner, weaver, block printer, and tailor. But the craft industry is dwindling, as workers don’t find it socially ot economically rewarding. With the Western push towards sustainability, could Indian artisans and crafts be elevated?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Denim is a great example. You called it the original sustainable garment

It was meant to last.

The fashion industry is a horrendous polluter. To what extent do you hold petroleum-based synthetics like polyester responsible?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Traditionally, India followed this model. You’re still able to trace the farmer, spinner, weaver, block printer, and tailor. But the craft industry is dwindling, as workers don’t find it socially ot economically rewarding. With the Western push towards sustainability, could Indian artisans and crafts be elevated?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Where do you see these changes?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Traditionally, India followed this model. You’re still able to trace the farmer, spinner, weaver, block printer, and tailor. But the craft industry is dwindling, as workers don’t find it socially ot economically rewarding. With the Western push towards sustainability, could Indian artisans and crafts be elevated?

More than two-thirds of our clothes today are either made of plastic or contain plastic, which is what polyester and nylon are. It’s an enormous problem. Companies are sourcing so much polyester to keep costs down and make more profits as opposed to use noble fabrics or natural fibres such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, and hemp that biodegrade. [These] are not made by pumping oil from the core of the earth, giving rise to enormous pollution in their processing, and then never biodegrading.

while there are plenty of circulatory solutions for existing polyester and nylon, at some point we need to stop making new polyester and nylon. There are a lot of petroleum companies who say we have to stop fossil fuels by 2050 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have to stop fossil fuels by 2025 but they’re starting new drilling fields when we have enough now to last us until 2059.

Denim is a great example. You called it the original sustainable garment

It was meant to last.

COVER IMAGE: Belcalis Almanzar, known as Cardi B, is a star that instagram birthed. She first found fame in 2011 after her videotaped rants went viral on Vine and instagram. Her unfiltered social media game is on attestation to the fact that anyone who has the power to entertain can shoot up to fame. Her rise has been meteoric, with her track ‘WAP’ going viral on TikTok in 2020. Cardi B. has showcased Gaurav Gupta’s designs to her 169 million Instagram floowers several times, when she wore him for her ‘No Love’ video in 2022 and to the Grammy’s in 2023. She is pictured here at Gaurav Gupta’s show at the Palais de Tokyo, at Paris Haute Couture Week.

Author

ROHIT CHAWLA

Rohit Chawla is a contemporaryphotographer who spent close totow decades in advertising at JWTbefore moving out to start his owndesign and film production company.He is represented by the Art AliveGallery in India

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